Founder of T2T Solutions—a sourcing company for brands such as Inditex and Mango—this ISEM alumnus (Right Product and PADEM, 2019) didn’t need the “green boom” to believe in the circular economy. Now that the enthusiasm has cooled but regulations are tightening, his approach to business is starting to seem like nothing more than common sense.

• You took "The Right Product" and the PADEM courses at ISEM in 2019, just as sustainability was starting to gain traction in the fashion industry. What were you looking for back then, and to what extent did that change your business perspective?

At that time, I was seeking knowledge. My career has always focused on the supply chain from a technical perspective, and the “The Right Product” program was a great fit for me because it allowed me to explore all areas of the supply chain affected by sustainability; it was very interesting. For its part, the Padem program helped me better understand my clients and gain a 360-degree view of their needs and what I could offer them.

• T2T recently became part of the ACBC group. How would you describe that move to someone in the industry?

After 25 years, T2T has brought the ACBC group—headquartered in Milan—on board with the project. We share ACBC’s philosophy of innovation based on traceability, materials, and production methods, as well as their support in two key areas: how to innovate in the supply chain and how to facilitate business transformation through design, analysis, and efficiency—all of which are essential for the sector’s transformation.

"GREEN FATIGUE"

• Five years ago, “sustainability” was the buzzword in every brand presentation. Today, it seems to have lost steam—at least in public discourse. Do you see it that way from the inside, or is it just media hype?

I think it was a media-related mistake in our previous business model: rushing things. Unfortunately, “sustainability” was overused in marketing departments to sell things that weren’t yet real, and it has lost some of its momentum because it’s seen as a form of greenwashing that we’ve all created together by not doing things right.

However, it is now much more of a reality. Sustainability cuts across all areas and is having a significant—and positive—impact on all departments and companies in general. For example, it is being integrated into the finance department, and, as always, economic power can drive transformation across all departments.

• For a fashion brand today, is sustainability a competitive advantage, an uncomfortable obligation, or simply a cost they don't know how to justify?

Sustainability remains a competitive advantage, but only for those who are prepared to meet the demands of this transformation. It’s uncomfortable, like any regulation. We’re coming from a largely unregulated industry and moving toward a highly regulated one. We’re not used to this path, but there’s no turning back. Regulation will also make the fashion industry safer, and the costs it entails will ultimately be balanced out by market forces. A transition will be necessary, but we must change the way we do things and the way we make our businesses profitable.

THE CHANGE THAT IS DEFINITELY COMING

• European regulations—the CSRD, the Due Diligence Directive, and the Ecodesign Regulation—will force brands to do what many voluntarily promised to do but failed to do. Are they ready?

The reality is that no, but we mustn't forget that we have a very professional ecosystem in this sector, so those who aren't yet professional will eventually become so. Perhaps what's most demotivating is the lack of clarity in the regulations, because the fact that they're changing so frequently breeds mistrust. But once that's the case, given our professional capabilities, European regulations will be something everyone can handle.

• What is the most common mistake you see in companies that believe they are already ready to meet these requirements?

To believe that they are ready to meet these requirements. As I mentioned earlier, we still need clear regulations, collaboration among all members of the ecosystem, and to support the transition with knowledge.

• At T2T, you work with traceability, GOTS and GRS certifications, and suppliers with Inditex IDs... How difficult is it, really, to set up a supply chain that can withstand the regulatory scrutiny that’s coming?

The supply chain begins at the end—typically with the garment manufacturers; they are the ones closest to the customer and have a direct relationship with the retailer. Next comes the raw material, which is the part of the chain that has improved the most in recent years in terms of traceability. But the reality is that there is still no bridge between the beginning of the chain and the retailer.

That is why it is now important to work with all the stakeholders in the supply chain so that we can drive this transformation together. At T2T, we see ourselves precisely as that bridge: between the source of the supply chain and the consumer’s needs. And for this transformation to become a reality, we also need the involvement of the end customer—not just large companies.

CIRCULAR ECONOMY: FROM CONCEPT TO INDUSTRIAL REALITY

• "Circular economy" has suffered the same fate as "sustainability": it sounds good, but few people know what it means in the textile industry. How do you explain it to a first-time customer?

I don’t think the term “circular economy” has suffered the same fate as “sustainability”—quite the opposite, in fact; it is the solution. All sectors are working to regenerate the raw materials we have—which are scarce—and reuse them. In the textile sector, we are currently reusing only 1%, and we should be achieving higher rates.

From a product perspective, we need to design the entire process from the outset, considering how we will recycle the merchandise so that it can re-enter the supply chain. At the same time, retailers need to consider launching new business lines and solutions (secondhand, rental, etc.) that can extend the product’s lifespan.

• What is the biggest bottleneck to scaling up circular production? Is it technological, economic, cultural...?

The most complex part is the recycling process: product collection, processing, machinery, etc. But at the same time, it is the most important factor in ensuring the success of the circular economy. All stakeholders are collaborating—at the national and regional levels (city councils, etc.)—to achieve this. It is a shared goal, and other sectors have already achieved it; therefore, we will succeed as well.

• How does the design process change when circularity is not an afterthought but the starting point?

It changes everything, because it makes you think about the product’s entire life cycle—not just the need it fulfills, but also how to recover it later for the circular economy. Technological advances—3D printing, artificial intelligence—greatly facilitate this process, although there is still a disconnect between digital design and industry. But the design process will be the key to transforming the circular economy.

ALUMNI COUNCIL

• If an ISEM student were considering whether to specialize in sustainability today, what would you honestly tell them about the real career opportunities the sector offers?

To the students at ISEM and to my own children, I would say that I believe there are three fundamental aspects to preparing for the future: The first would be the cross-cutting nature of sustainability—which we’ve been discussing—that will take the place of what used to be economic and financial analysis: it will be present in everything.

To make sustainability more efficient, it is vital to combine it with technology and all the tools that technology provides us to improve processes.

Finally, what matters most to me is that, even though we’re so technical and so digital, we need to maintain the ability to remain very human and develop empathy, and know how to explain things… Machines may be able to perform any process, but human capacity is crucial to transforming anything.